Category Archives: travel

Food ‘n’ France: Day 8

Our last day in France, we went to Reims to visit the Clicquot factory and tour the local cathedral. Like I said, my camera batteries were dead at this point. So sad. Alas, these two lonely pictures were stolen from a dear friend. That’s all I have.

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Factory. I have spoiled taste buds.

Cathedrale de Reims

Perhaps it’s better, anyway, to end this series with fewer pictures and more words. Because the shivers I get whenever I think about this trip surely deserve more than pictures and captions as recognition. Yet it’s so difficult to describe the magic we all certainly felt throughout our journey, but particularly in its denouement as we realized how very close we were to that magic potentially ending.

Early flights and early train rides meant the following morning was a rush of rolling our suitcases out the door, so that night in Paris was it for most of us. And I’m so sorry I couldn’t walk around after our jaunt to the Louvre for a few last pictures. I could feel the joy of the trip draining from me with every tear, and trust me, there were lots of tears. I wanted so badly to remember the happy moments, the spontaneous laughter, the long dinners that grew into early breakfasts, the late-night chats aided by wine and acknowledging our own vulnerability–like we could share anything with one another. And we did. That’s what I wanted to remember, not the goodbyes punctuated with choked sobs.

Of course, for those of us prone to writing sappy entries like this one, choked sobs are never far from the surface, always threatening to burst from our throats at the thought of a that last Perfect Day or, more solemnly, a life cut short.

So here I am, two weeks after the trip’s end, reflective and still a little sad. But it’s not leaving France that hurt so much as leaving them, those people with whom I’ve shared so much.

Again: I miss you all and I love you so much. I’ll see you soon, but in the meantime… Don’t forget to toast to Tuesdays.

Oxford Day Trip, or a Harry Potter Palooza

Another day in pictures. Can you tell I’m too busy to write more than a few hundred words? Well, I am. Soaking up my last few days in London requires little talking and lots of walking.

Radcliffe Camera--this place is still a library

Bodleian Library. These libraries are brilliant because they actually inspire studying.

Gardens outside of Christ Church College

Lewis Carroll attended Oxford and based Alice on the dean's daughter, so there's a big Alice theme here!

Lunch at the King's Arms

Chicken & bacon pie with veggies and chips. I'll miss how the Brits top everything with a flaky pastry.

THE GREAT HALL FROM HARRY POTTER. MY FACE DOES NOT EVEN BEGIN TO REVEAL MY EXCITEMENT, NOR DOES ALL-CAPS.

Outside of The Great Hall, where Ludivine is being studious. Duh.

The Great Staircase from Harry Potter. Swoon.

A boat ride along the Isis was tempting, but not for 23 pounds.

A sweet ending at the sweet shop, which kept playing songs from Willy Wonka and The Chocolate Factory. Another childhood fantasy realized.

So, I’ve done the Oxford thing. What else should I do in my last ten days? Any suggestions? Any questions about my experience abroad that you want answered?

Food ‘n’ France: Day 7

We took an early morning train to Paris, our last stop on the trip of a lifetime. Day seven also marked the death of my last AA batteries, meaning that tomorrow’s post will be tragically void of images.

Cafe de Flore for lunch. It's never too early for bubbly.

Cold chicken with mayo and a side salad (not pictured). After all the snails and cream sauces, I was craving simplicity!

Chocolate Opera, singing not included

Remember that chocolate river in Willy Wonka and The Chocolate Factory? This hot chocolate tasted like the pre-Augustus-Gloop-entry liquid chocolate in that river. AKA liquid heaven.

Our hotel room next to Saint Sulpice

Ivy-covered courtyard in the hotel

The Louvre

More lovely Louvre

Just a quick encounter with Mona

Recalling my childhood obsession with ancient Egyptian culture

A perfect Parisian day

A perfect Parisian view

Ditto.

Dinner at Le Dome, where I had the most amazing lobster

We went to the Musee Jacquemart Andre first thing (the French equivalent of Biltmore Estate, with more art), followed by lunch and a relaxing afternoon touring around Paris. Sometimes, those kind of days are the best.

I tell you, we are here on Earth to fart around, and don’t let anybody tell you different.
Kurt Vonnegut

Food ‘n’ France: Day 6

Another bus trip day, from Dijon to Vezelay. I posted enough pictures to let them do the talking, I think.

Reaching the church requires quite a climb, but it was punctuated by the most fantastic old buildings.

Potentially the best store location ever, for the view alone.

I rest my case.

Floral canopy, anyone?

At last, the church, with its predictable scaffolding.

Inside, where we witnessed modern-day pilgrims entering in this huge group and praying and singing together. The sight moved even the non-believers among us. (Read: me)

We walked back down to enjoy a long lunch.

Long lunch location

Another escargot starter, just a taste

Here we've got escargot and frog legs on one plate. Nothing says pretension like putting two previously-slimy animals together and calling the combination a delicacy.

Main meal: coq au vin

Mashed potatoes and bread with a side of rooster combs. Cracker Barrel meets French gourmet.

You've seen this cheese plate before, but there's no reason not to bring it up again, even if my first glance at it post-coq-au-vin made me feel like I was going to bring up my lunch in a bad way.

Google Translate calls this dessert "snow egg." It truly was like an egg-and-cream blizzard. Just too much for an already heavy meal, but I enjoyed the poppy crisp and rhubarb flakes.

Gratuitous view of the fields below

Just a piece of Mary Magdalene's bone chillin' in a gold and glass container, assisted by four pilgrims and a nun.

We returned to Dijon, had a light dinner, and then enjoyed our chocolate gifts. Sometimes I moonlight as a woman with self-control, which is why I still have some of these fruit-jelly-filled bad boys left.

Black: blackberry, Purple: black currant, Pink: raspberry, Peach: peach

Get excited… tomorrow is a Paris post.

Food ‘n’ France: Day 5

From Roanne, we took a bus trip to Cluny to see the ruins of an abbey destroyed in one of the many French revolutions.

View from the top of the ruins

We then headed over to Beaune, enjoyed a long lunch, and explored the Hospices de Beaune. It’s this beautiful old hospital that was made specifically for the poor and decrepit, a sort of bargain with God made by a wealthy duke to ensure his place in heaven.

The courtyard in the center of the hospices

After a day of less-than-ideal weather, we arrived in Dijon. Yes, that place with the mustard.

Old town hall, perhaps?

Presumably a town hub on not-sucky-weather days

We ate dinner at Le Sauvage, where everything’s grilled over this open flame in the center of the restaurant. Rustic, cozy, divine.

Escargot appetizer. One cannot help but sop up all that saucy, basily goodness with a few hunks of bread.

So. Much. Steak. Even I couldn't finish it. And you really haven't lived until you've eaten a tender steak paired with marrow. Truly, you haven't.

This ice cream with cherries set my heart aflame. Unfortunately, I didn't let the liquor burn off quite long enough, so it also set my cheeks aflame with the glow of too much alcohol. Such is life.

I’m glad I’m writing these entries now and not, oh, a week ago. I might have never finished a paragraph without bawling. I want this trip back.

Food ‘n’ France: Day 4

Then we headed northward. I continued to serve as fearless navigator, which is how I realized that we were all up on the Mediterranean. We drove to St. Guilhem-le-Desert, which is perched up on a cliff and has the most incredible vistas. We essentially curved around cliffs that descended straight into a river to get there, but whoa was the risk worth it.

Just some Mediterranean Sea.

See? Perched. Perfect.

Dried fruit stand. The ideal snack.

Enter two hour train ride to Roanne. Commence A Dinner to Remember.

Head chef + his really attractive staff

And my amazing dinner date.

I’m beginning to see a pattern here. I might actually be the luckiest person in the world.

Food ‘n’ France: Day 3

Two Thursdays ago saw us continuing our epic loop around France. We began, of course, in Toulouse.

On our way to the Basilica of St. Sernin. Even when we weren't admiring monuments, you can see that I had great-looking people to admire instead.

Basilica of St. Sernin

Then, we headed farther south towards the Pyrenees mountains, almost getting south of the border. That’s also around the time that it started to snow. Yes, that’s right, snow. In May. As a result, we weren’t able to go to this ambitiously-placed monastery (St. Martin de Canigou) on the side of a mountain. We missed spectacular views, or so I’ve heard. But I still managed to get in a few good photos.

We were right on the French/Spanish border here. It was raining in France and sunny in Spain. Naturally.

Here's St. Michel de Cuixa. We saw the other half of this abbey in NYC at The Met, saved from destruction lovin' Nazis. This half has basically been rebuilt.

There were donkeys and this view outside of our hotel in Prades. Le sigh.

We ate dinner at Le Jardin d’ Aymeric. Quite a simple dinner, but a whole lot of wine flowing. Fortunately, there were only a few other people in the restaurant. ‘Cause we were LOUD.

Shrimp bisque with some sort of French take on an egg roll. Any excuse to use more fat, right?

Lamb with a veggie casserole (See how it's encased in zucchini? There's beauty in the details.) and a side of mashed potatoes

Chocolate cake with coffee sauce. Good, and I don't even like coffee.

We stumbled back home around 11 to rest up for day four, where we began our journey north. Stay tuned.

Food ‘n’ France: Day 2

I woke up at 5 a.m. on May 12, got a call at 6:30 a.m. Met my classmates at CDG an hour or so later, and we proceeded to take a bus to Toulouse. The bus ride took nine hours. The company was great, but severely jet-lagged and lacking in the conversation department for the majority of the trip. We were all grateful when we finally arrived in the southern university town. The sun was shining and our appetites were enormous.

Toulouse had some great parks scattered around the city, perfect for weary travellers to sunbathe and galavant.

Mr. Sun, Sun...

Dinner was at Restaurant le 19.

After the foie gras I (digitally) shared with you all earlier, I had some uber-flaky fish with a tinfoil pocket of vegetables. So light, so lovely.

Dessert: A fruit gratin with champagne. Creme brulee on steroids, essentially.

We went out to a bar briefly after dinner, but we had to rest our bodies in preparation for more road tripping and more feasting.

Food ‘n’ France: Day 1

I’m taking my France trip day-by-day, so today’s post covers May 11th. (Two weeks ago, ahhh!)

As you know, I missed my first train to France because I am an idiot, but not a big enough idiot to miss my train again later that day.

So just before midnight, I arrived in Paris to greet my lovely hostess, who puts the “rude French” stereotype to shame. Then again, she’s not Parisian, so I cannot say for certain that the stereotype is entirely inaccurate.

The following morning, we were greeted by a torrential downpour and wool-coat-worthy weather. Being a Londoner, I had an umbrella, but being an optimist, I did not bring my wool coat. Did I mention it was May?

We based our tour on real Paris-dwellers’ suggestions (my hostess included) and trekked over to Montmarte, then ended the day with a visit to the Eiffel Tower. I can’t say I fell in love with Paris that first day, but that’s because my heart was focusing on pumping blood to my freezing extremities.

This is Montmartre. It's on top of a hill.

Paris probably looks nicer than this in general, but as previously established, weather in Europe hates me.

This building is famous and iconic, in case you were not aware.

Mentally, I spent the day reflecting on the futility of trying to leave London weather behind and fretting over my classmates’ flight status. That famous alphabet soup volcano, which ruined my trip to Portugal, was acting up again. The flight risked being cancelled. My evening consisted of refreshing the flight status page until I was sure it had taken off.

Then, I set my alarm for 5 a.m. the next morning…

A Meal to Remember

At last. A post about my dinner at Troisgros, my first foray into the world of 3-Michelin-star dining, my first real marathon meal (twelve courses, five hours). I think I’ll let the picture-and-caption combination do the talking for me.

The place setting when we first were seated. This plate must have been for aesthetic purposes only, since I never got a chance to eat off of it.

Mackerel with a rosy gelatin base (I think it contained vinegar). My least favorite, but fortunately the food only improved from there.

Gnochettis stuffed with artichoke and topped with smoked sardines

Pea mezzalunas and lil' baby forest mushrooms

Fried frog legs with a tamarind satay. Much, much better than chicken.

Poached sandre (type of fish)

A "dialogue" between duck and shrimp. This dish was my favorite. Let me tell you, birds and shellfish can have some great conversations, especially post-mortem.

Veal with some kind of nut sauce

Then we were forced to choose between all of these cheeses to create THE ULTIMATE CHEESE PLATE.

THE ULTIMATE CHEESE PLATE

Thinly sliced rhubarb surrounding raspberry somethin-somethin (sorbet? cream? liquid gold?) with a crunchy tarragon base

This little number was presumably for tiding us over between dessert courses. I did not need tiding, but I ate some of each anyway. The sesame gingerbread man and the marzipan-coated gingerbread man were the highlights.

A "sublime" chocolate tart with a side of pear and pear sorbet. The description was apt, to say the least.

Our final course involved black currant jelly, milk, and caramel (and an act of God or two). The jury's still out on what the white sheet-like topping was.

And that’s it. The ultimate in fine dining in fourteen pictures. I have more to say, as always, but feast your eyes on this food porn for now.